When Row Gauge Matters

We often talk about the importance of gauge as if it is just about getting the right stitch gauge. Row gauge matters too. Sometimes. There are three things that can really matter when your row gauge differs more than a little bit. First, the length of the piece will differ, either being too short or too long. Second, if you need to pick up stitches along an edge you may not be able to use the pattern's ratio (often given as pick up 3 stitches for every 4 rows or similar) If you were to use the pattern's ratio you will have too many or too few. Third, the amount of yarn you need to complete the project will be more or less than the pattern recommends.

To see if this is an issue for you, start measuring your row gauge and comparing it to the patterns you work to see if you regularly have a row gauge that doesn't match. You can also go back to finished projects. Make a list of at least a handful of projects to see if there is a trend. Include different designers because designers use their personal gauge and their gauge may be outside the average gauge. 

Row Gauge In Shaping A Garment
What if you have a carefully shaped garment that has specific instructions for each row, let's say the yoke shaping in a top down sweater? If your row gauge differs very much from the pattern you will end up with a yoke that is too deep or too short. Either way the armhole fit and therefore the sleeve fit is compromised.

Your Row Gauge Has More Stitches Per Inch Than The Pattern
If the armhole is too short it is because your row gauge has MORE rows than the pattern's gauge. The yoke will be to short and therefore the armhole will be too small and the sleeve will be either too tight or not fit at all. For example. say the pattern's row gauge is 30 rows over 4 inches and you get 35 rows over 4 inches. If the yoke per the pattern instructions would be 10 inches deep, your yoke will be 8.7 inches deep. since the yoke has a front and a back that means the armhole loses 2.6 inches. Your sleeve will be 2.6 inches smaller in circumference than the pattern intends.

Let's look at the math to see how to calculate this. 

The pattern calls for 30 rows over 4 inches = 30/4 = 7.5 rows per inch.
The pattern calls for you to work 76 rows so the yoke depth should be 76/7.5 = 10 inches.
Your row gauge is 35 row over 4 inches = 35/4 = 8.75 rows per inch.
After 76 rows your yoke will measure 76 rows / 8.75 rows per inch = 8.7 inches.
The front side of yoke should be 10 inches so 10-8.7 = 1.3 inches less yoke depth at the front. Same for the back yoke. You have 1.3 inches twice =  1.3x2 = 2.6 inches less in sleeve circumference.

This doesn't mean you can't make that pattern. It does mean that you need to modify it so that you get the right yoke depth and the resulting sleeve is the correct size. Probably this means adding more plain rows until the yoke measure 10 inches. The solution will vary depending on the pattern.

Your Row Gauge Has Fewer Stitches Per Inch Than The Pattern
If the armhole is too long it is because your row gauge has FEWER rows than the pattern. The yoke will be too long and therefore the armhole will be too big and the sleeve will be too loose. For example. say the pattern's row gauge is 30 rows over 4 inches and you get 26 rows over 4 inches. If the yoke per the pattern instructions would be 10 inches deep, your yoke will be 11.7 inches deep. Since the yoke has a front and a back that means the armhole gains a total of 3.4 inches. Your sleeve will be 3.4 inches larger in circumference than the pattern intends.

Let's look at the math to see how to calculate this.

The pattern calls for 30 rows over 4 inches = 30/4 = 7.5 rows per inch.
The pattern calls for you to work 76 rows so the yoke depth should be be 76/7.5 = 10 inches.
Your row gauge is 26 row over 4 inches = 26/4 = 6.5 rows per inch.
After 76 rows your yoke will measure 76 rows / 6.5 rows per inch = 11.7 inches.
The front side of yoke should be 10 inches so 11.7-10 = 1.7 inches more yoke depth at the front. Same for the back yoke. You have 1.7 inches twice 1.7x2 = 3.4 inches more in sleeve circumference.

You'll need to work fewer rows to get the correct yoke depth the correct sleeve circumference. How to do this may be difficult if the pattern has specific directions for each row. The solution will vary depending on the pattern.

Picking Up Stitches When Your Row Gauge is Different
You've finished your sweater body (Yay!) and now need to pick up stitches for the button band. The pattern say pick up 3 stitches for every four rows meaning pick up a stitch in every row for three rows and then skip a row, repeat until all stitches are picked up. If your row gauge is similar to the pattern you'll end up with approximately the right number of stitches. If your row gauge differs significantly, you'll have too many or too few stitches picked up. Too many stitches can make your button band look stretched out and even buckled. Too few can make it look gathered and pull the front of the sweater up in the middle. 

So what is the fix? You need to calculate YOUR stitch-to-row ratio. Or you can go with trial and error until you like the result. For trial and error, common ratios are 3 stitches for 4 rows, 2 stitches for 3 rows, or 4 stitches for 5 rows. Try one, if the band is too stretched out, try another where you are picking up fewer stitches. If the band is too gathered, pick up more stitches.

To calculate your ratio, the key is knowing the gauges for the needle sizes and stitch stitch pattern(s) you are using. As an example, let's look at a stockinette sweater with a 1x1 ribbing button band worked perpendicular to the body. The ribbing is worked on a needle two sizes smaller. You will need to know your row gauge in stockinette on the body needle and the stitch gauge in 1x1 ribbing on the smaller needle. Yes, you will need to swatch the 1x1 ribbing and block it. Yes, that does take extra time, but is it more than picking up the button band multiple times?

If your stockinette row gauge is 35 rows over 4 inches which is 8.75 rows per inch. And, your 1x1 ribbing gauge on the smaller needle is 30 stitches over 4 inches which is 7.5 stitches per inch.

So in 8.75 inches you need to pick up 7.5 button band stitches. Let's find the ratio.

7.5 stitches per 8.75 rows = 7.5/8.75 = 0.86 stitches per row. That isn't helpful yet. Let's find a simple fraction for that. Try 9/10 = 0.9, can we get closer? 8/9 - 0.89, not much closer, 7/8 = 0.875, 6/7 = 0.86 is perfect! You need to pick up 6 stitches for every 7 rows or (pick up stitches in every row 6 times, skip one row) repeat until all stitches are picked up. You will have a different number of button band stitches than the pattern, but the button band will look good. Keep in mind that button hole placement will change. There are several button hole calculators online. Search online for "buttonhole calculator" if you need help figuring that out.

Use the same technique when picking up stitches at an armhole, neckline, or anywhere you are picking up stitches perpendicular to the piece already worked. 

Yarn Usage When Row Gauge Differs
If you consistently have MORE rows than the pattern's gauge calls for you will need more yarn to make that design than the pattern suggests. It takes more yarn to create those extra rows so you will need more yarn to make the same piece. You may know this already but not know why. If this is true for you, get an extra skein or two, especially for larger projects.

If you consistently have FEWER rows than the pattern gauge calls for you will need less yarn to make that design than the pattern suggests. It takes less yarn to create those extra rows so you will need less yarn to make the same piece. To ensure you have enough yarn and that it is all in the same dye lot, I still recommend you get the amount suggested by the pattern just in case. Over time, you may become comfortable with rounding down a bit or playing yarn chicken. 

 

Questions? Feel free to email Maia at maia AT blacksquirrelberkely DOT com.

Is there terminology you don't understand? Check our handy Yarn Terminology Glossary. Click on the link or look for the Useful Information link at the bottom of every page of our website. Don't find your answer or don't understand it? Email Maia at the email address above.